Miles from Home

Greetings! As we inaugurate the first-ever blog post to mark the launch of “Miles from Home,” I extend a warm Konnichiwa to all readers. Today, I am thrilled to open the door to my roots, Yokosuka, an extraordinary city where tales of the sea intertwine with the allure of nature and the savor of exceptional cuisine. In the following pages, I’ll guide you through the heart of Yokosuka, unveiling its history, showcasing its natural splendors, savoring its local flavors, and immersing ourselves in its vibrant cultural tapestry. Prepare to discover Yokosuka, where personal stories meet a cityscape bursting with unique charm.

Brief History

First and foremost, Yokosuka is full of maritime history. The first thing that comes to mind is that it is where US Naval Admiral, Matthew C. Perry, first came by in July of 1853 demanding that Japan open up its ports to US merchants. Remember that at the time Yokosuka was just a quaint fishing village as it was in the Edo period. Imagine samurais running around; that was the state of Japan in 1853.

Matthew Perry | Mathew Benjamin Brady | Public domain | via Wikimedia Commons

In 1860, the minister of finance for the Tokugawa Shogunate, Oguri Kozuke-no-suke, deemed that Japan needed a shipyard capable of housing large vessels if Japan were to become more prominent in world trade. Upon inspection, it was deemed that Yokosuka would fit the bill and was chosen as the site for establishing the shipyard. At the time appropriately named Yokosuka Iron Works, now known as the Yokosuka Naval Yard, was created with the help of a French engineer named Léonce Verny.

Yokosuka went on to become one of the main arsenals into the 20th century when the then-Japanese Imperial Naval base was built. Some famous battleships were created in the Yokosuka Naval Yard. In 1945, the Japanese Imperial Naval base was surrendered to the United States. It is now the home of the United States Fleet Activities Yokosuka, which is where I was born and raised.

If you’re into battleships and navy history, visit the Museum ship Mikasa located in Mikasa Park. She was an active member of the Japan-Russo war of 1904-1905 and the last remaining example of a pre-dreadnought battleship anywhere in the world. It is also the last example of a British-built battleship still existing.

If you want to get to know more about Yokosuka Navy Yard-related history, visit Verny Park built along the Yokosuka Navy Yard. There, you can find the Verny Commemorative Museum, which is free to visit, where you can learn more about him. If history isn’t your thing, Verny Park boasts the beauty of its rose garden inspired by Verny’s French background. It also hosts a Rose Garden Festival in the Spring and Summer.  

Natural Beauty

Yokosuka is located on the Miura peninsula, which means it’s surrounded by a body of water everywhere you go. One of my favorite places to be with the ocean is Mikasa Park. As mentioned earlier, Mikasa Park is where the battleship Mikasa is docked, and it is a short walk from the Yokosuka-Chuo station. While there, you are facing Tokyo Bay and can take a boat out to Sarushima, or Monkey Island, which is an inhabited island that was used for military defense. You can explore the remnants of old fortifications and gun batteries that were built to protect Tokyo Bay from potential threats.

Sarushima offers visitors the opportunity to relax away from the hustle and bustle of the city in complete nature. They offer a variety of outdoor activities, such as swimming, sunbathing, and hiking. The island is a popular spot for picnics, barbecues, and water sports during the warmer months. Please note that the island may have specific operating hours and access restrictions, so it’s a good idea to check with local authorities or tour operators for the latest information before planning your visit.

Local Cuisine

Yokosuka holds a foodie reputation. We have a few local dishes that we’re known for. The first, and arguably the most recognizable, is the Yokosuka Kaigun Curry. Ever since they were the Imperial Navy, the Maritime Self-defence Force has had the tradition of eating curry on the ship on Fridays. You can find this everywhere you go in Yokosuka, and the city has been affectionately dubbed the Town of Curry. We even have a mascot character who promotes all things curry named Sukarei.

One of the famous spots to have this curry is a restaurant diner on Dobuita-street called, Dobuita Shokudou Perry. Dobuita Shokudou Perry is named after Matthew Perry, who played a significant role in opening Japan to the West in the mid-19th century. The restaurant has a Western-style theme, and it’s especially popular for its American and Japanese fusion dishes. You can find a variety of items on the menu, including hamburgers, sandwiches, and other comfort foods, but they are known for their curry.

Along Dobuita Street, you are going to find a plethora of restaurants and bars. Another dish that Yokosuka is famous for is the hearty Yokosuka Navy Burger. The best restaurant to have one of these big ol’ boys is Tsunami. The restaurant is conveniently located across from Dobuita Shokudou Perry and we are long-time family friends with the owner of the establishment.

My favorite is the Mushroom Cheeseburger, but you’re going to have to watch your arteries after consumption. It is extremely cheesy and delicious. They also have fun towering burgers like the 7 Fleet Burger, which will feed a group of 4. As well as a fusion between the two cuisines, Yokosuka Kaigun Curry Burger. 

Please note that, as with any establishment, it’s a good idea to check the latest information, including operating hours and any specific requirements, before planning your visit.

Cultural Experiences

My favorite time of the year to back and visit Yokosuka is Spring and Fall. This would also be the perfect time for visitors to come check out Yokosuka as they host many festivals. There’s something culturally significant happening every weekend. Second to the last weekend of May is usually the Yokosuka Curry Festival, where local and even far away restaurants as well as different squadrons of the Maritime Self-Defence Force set up a tent and compete for the title of the best curry in Japan. Festival goers pay an upfront charge of about 1,000 yen for a choice of two curries to compare and contrast. There’s also the deep-fried curry stuffed bread contest where you can take home 4 different curry breads for 800 yen. My mother frequents this festival as she is a curry connoisseur, being born and raised in the “City of Curry.”

The last weekend of May is usually the Yokosuka-Chuo festival, where the main street is lined with food stalls and game stalls. This festival takes place every year at roughly the same time because of the local shrines that host them. There’s some religious connotation with the origin of this festival, so my mother always took us to the shrine and thanked the gods before we joined in the festivities. The shrine, which is actually called Suwa Shrine, is located behind the McDonald’s across the street from Yokosuka-Chuo Station. There’s a procession down the middle of the main street where Mikoshi, a portable shrine, gets carried down as well as traditional dancers and musician’s floats.

Similarly, in late October, there’s the annual Mikoshi Parade, which similar to the Yokosuka-Chuo festival, the main street gets filled with street stalls serving festival foods. There are generally about 2,600 people participating in the parade as the Mikoshi carriers, dancers, musicians, etc. The famous mikoshi is the mikoshi of the US Navy base as you don’t often see those in other parts of Japan.

The week before the Mikoshi Parade is the annual Fireworks show in honor of the friendship between the US Navy and the City of Yokosuka. During that weekend, the base opens up its gate for people to explore the base and watch fireworks together. There are food stalls and vendors along Mikasa Park!

At the End

In closing, Yokosuka is not just my hometown; it’s a place that encapsulates a rich tapestry of history, natural beauty, delectable cuisine, and vibrant cultural experiences. From its maritime heritage, symbolized by the legendary Admiral Perry’s arrival, to the serene shores of Mikasa Park and the delectable flavors of Yokosuka Kaigun Curry and Navy Burgers, this city has something to offer everyone.

The annual festivals that grace Yokosuka’s calendar bring the community together and provide a glimpse into the unique fusion of traditions and cultures that define this remarkable place. It’s a city that I’m proud to call home, and I hope this blog post has inspired you to consider visiting, exploring, and experiencing the wonders of Yokosuka for yourself.

Whether you’re a fan of naval history, a nature enthusiast, a foodie seeking culinary adventures, or simply someone looking to immerse themselves in the vibrant Japanese culture, Yokosuka has something special waiting for you. So, as you plan your future travels or if you happen to be in the area, don’t miss the chance to discover the hidden gems and cherished experiences that this charming city has to offer. Say Konnichiwa to Yokosuka!