Header photo by Mizunoumi, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Yokosuka has a prominent position in Japanese maritime history and is known for its military significance. The city hosts both a Japanese and an American naval base, which has influenced its culture and demographic.
It produced people like me, who are half Japanese and half American, and much like me, the city is a unique blend of American and Japanese cultures. Whether you’re a returning reader of my blog or stumbled upon it because you’ve got orders, welcome to my guide to my lovely hometown!
- How to Get There
- Historical and Cultural Attractions
- Natural Attractions
- Dining and Nightlife
- Events and Festivals
- Shopping
- Practical Information
- In The End
How to Get There
Where exactly is Yokosuka, anyway?
Yokosuka is a city located in Kanagawa Prefecture on the main island of Honshu in Japan. Geographically, it lies in the southeastern part of the Kanto region, approximately 40 kilometers (just shy of 25 miles) southwest of Tokyo, the capital city of Japan.
The city is situated on the Miura Peninsula and is bounded by the cities of Zushi to the north, Miura to the south, and by the towns of Hayama and Yokohama to the northeast. The eastern side of Yokosuka faces Tokyo Bay, while the western side looks out over Sagami Bay– which is where Kamakura and Enoshima is!
From Tokyo: The easiest way to reach Yokosuka from Tokyo Station is by train. The JR Yokosuka Line directly connects Tokyo Station to Yokosuka Station in about an hour. However, Yokosuka Station is hardly used by locals as Yokosuka Station was put there by the government for mostly military uses. You’ll notice that Yokosuka Station is located right by the Japanese Maritime Self-Defense Force entrance, away from the center of town.
Alternatively, you can use Yokosuka Chuo Station, which is in the heart of the city and located on the Keikyu Main Line. From Tokyo, take the JR Keihintohoku Line-Negishi Line to Shinagawa Station and change to the Keikyu Main Line.
From Haneda Airport: Take the Keikyu Line from Haneda Airport to Yokosuka Chuo, which is about a 60-minute trip.
Historical and Cultural Attractions
Mikasa Park
Home to the pre-dreadnought battleship, Mikasa, which is now a museum ship. I believe it might be one of the last pre-dreadnought ships still around, but I could be mistaken. This park is a must-visit for history enthusiasts especially since she was a part of the Japan-Russo War.
It is in short proximity to the Womble Gate and you can actually see the McDonald’s on base from the park. It’s also a close walk to the Yokosuka Port Market, which hosts local shops and has a market where you can purchase fish and other seafood.
Verny Park
Named after the French engineer who contributed significantly to the modernization of the Japanese navy, this park is great for a relaxing stroll and views of the Yokosuka Navy Yard where you can see vessels from both the US Navy and the Japanese Maritime Self-defense Force.
In the spring and fall, it hosts the Rose Garden Festival. You can always part take in the boat tour of the shipyard as well. You can purchase the ticket inside the COASKA Bayside Stores, a large shopping facility. It’s also a quick walk to Shioiri Station on the Keikyu Line, if you don’t feel like walking to Yokosuka Chuo Station.
Dobuita Street
Famous for its shopping and dining options, and notably, it served as an inspiration for the game series “Shenmue.” It is also the birth place of the Sukajan, a type of elaborately embroidered jacket that is a striking and iconic aspect of Japanese street fashion. The term “Sukajan” is a contraction of “Yokosuka jumper,” where American soldiers stationed after World War II commissioned these jackets as souvenirs.
You can find a few stores where they still authentically sell a Sukajan. I will go over more about Dobuita down below in the Dining and Nightlife section.
Yokosuka Museum of Art
Located near Kannonzaki Point, it offers modern art exhibitions with a focus on maritime themes. It is far from the city center, but it’s worth the visit!
As of publication, it is hosting Toshio Suzuki and Studio Ghibli Exhibition until June 18th, 2024. You do need to get advanced reservation through the Loppi machine in Lawson or Ministop convenience stores before going. Here is a link to the website where you can obtain these tickets: Lawson Ticket.
Natural Attractions
Sarushima Island (Monkey Island)
An uninhabited island that you can see from Mikasa Park. It can be accessed by ferry once you purchase tickets (the ticket station is right outside of Mikasa Park!) It’s perfect for a day trip of hiking, barbecuing, and exploring remnants of old fortifications and gun batteries that were built to protect Tokyo Bay from potential threats.
Kurihama Flower World
A scenic park renowned for its vast, colorful flower fields that change with the seasons. The park offers a tranquil escape with its sweeping views of blossoms ranging from poppies and cosmos to sunflowers. A highlight of the park is the giant Godzilla slide, a unique and playful tribute to the famous movie monster, which adds an element of fun and whimsy to the natural beauty of the flower gardens.
The park is family-friendly, featuring walking trails, picnic areas, and a herb garden, making it a popular destination for both local residents and tourists seeking a picturesque and relaxing day out.
Dining and Nightlife
Navy Curry
Yokosuka is famous for its unique style of navy-inspired curry. It’s a must-try local dish available in many restaurants around the city. You can find curry in any restaurant in Yokosuka as we boast as the City of Curry, but there are a few you need to stop at.
WOOD ISLAND Curry Restaurant, which is located right in front of the Yokosuka Base has been at the location serving up curry since the beginning of the Yokosuka curry campaign. The milk, served along with curry, is the one that the local elementary school children drink with their lunches, making it a nostalgic favorite of the Sukakko (children raised in Yokosuka) everywhere.
Another option is Yokosuka Navy Curry Honpo Restaurant. It has been around for a while much like the WOOD ISLAND Curry Restaurant mentioned above, but Yokosuka Navy Curry Honpo Restaurant has recreated the flavor and feel of curry from the Meiji Era. The restaurant has been decorated to emulate the interior of a ship from the era.
Yokosuka Navy Burger
If you ever miss the taste of home, look no further than the Yokosuka Navy Burger. These burgers are inspired by American-style cuisine and adapted to local tastes. The Navy Burger is typically characterized by large, juicy patties, fresh toppings, and special sauces, often served in generously-sized portions to reflect the robust, comfort food style favored by sailors.
Eating a Yokosuka Navy Burger offers a unique cultural fusion experience, blending American and Japanese culinary traditions in a casual, friendly setting.
Dobuita Street
The place to be for international cuisine and lively bars, influenced by the American naval presence. I can’t even begin to name all the bars available on Dobuita Street. They are all widely popular with sailors and locals alike. Some are just a counter bar where as some are Irish pubs.
I’ve only been to a couple of bars along Dobuita Street. One is New Tokyo– this place has a counter bar and a decent amount of box seats. I’ve seen people playing beer pong and billiards. Another bar I’ve been to is 605– which is a tiny counter bar but their grilled beef on a stick is to die for.
I’ve only been to two, but there are dozens more all with their unique characteristics and vibes so I’m sure you’ll find a place you’d enjoy!
Events and Festivals
The two biggest festivals in Yokosuka are the Kaikoku Festival and the Mikoshi Parade.
Yokosuka-Chuo festival
Usually held on the last weekend of May, this festival takes place every year at roughly the same time because of the local shrines that host them. There’s some religious connotation with the origin of this festival, so my mother always took us to the shrine and thanked the gods before we joined in the festivities. There’s a procession down the middle of the main street where Mikoshi, a portable shrine, gets carried down as well as traditional dancers and musician’s floats.
Yokosuka Kaikoku Festival
Held in August, this festival features parades, dance performances, and fireworks, celebrating the city’s naval history. Kaikoku means “opening of the country” so this festival is in honor of Commodore Perry coming to Yokosuka and the friendship fostered between the US and Japan. There’s a friendship day activity where the base opens up to the public, which is a really big deal for local and naval personnel!
Mikoshi Parade
This is generally held in October. It is a traditional Japanese festival with portable shrines carried through the streets as part of religious and festive celebrations. There are street stalls and vendors and you can indulge in cheap foods and part take in carnival-like games. If you want to be culturally appreciative, go to the shrine behind the McDonald’s just passed Yokosuka Chuo station, as the festival is to honor the god in that shrine!
Shopping
More’s City
A large nine-story shopping mall offering a wide range of goods from fashion to electronics. It is actually connected to the Yokosuka Chuo Station for ease of convenience. The basement floor is a grocery store and a market, 1st through 7th are stores and cafes, and 8th and 9th floors are dedicated restaurant floors. There’s also a 4 story arcade as well.
Yokosuka Port Market
This market is renowned for offering a diverse array of fresh seafood, local produce, and other culinary delights, making it a popular destination for both locals and tourists. It is located along the shore, a short walk from Mikasa Park.
The market is particularly famous for its wide selection of fish, shellfish, and other marine products. Visitors can find local specialties such as maguro (tuna), uni (sea urchin), and various types of shellfish, all freshly caught and brought in by local fishermen.
Besides seafood, the market also offers a range of locally sourced fruits, vegetables, and artisanal products. This includes traditional Japanese pickles, regional sweets, and crafts made by local artisans, reflecting the cultural richness of the area. You definitely need to try the baked custard flan, or Purin, at Marlow’s.
COASKA Bayside Stores
Coaska Bayside Stores features an array of shops that cater to various interests and needs. Visitors can find everything from popular fashion brands and accessories to sports goods, home décor, and electronic gadgets. The shopping environment is designed to be family-friendly, providing a relaxed shopping experience with plenty of options for everyone.
If you’re coming form base, there’s a pedestrian only gate that spits you right next to the store!
The dining options at Coaska Bayside Stores are quite diverse, ranging from casual cafes, food court fast food, to finer dining restaurants. There are also specialty eateries offering Japanese cuisine, including fresh seafood, which is a must-try given the complex’s proximity to the sea. In addition to shopping and dining, Coaska Bayside Stores offers various entertainment and leisure activities, there’s a bowling alley, TONDEMI–a trampoline park, movie theater and even a cat café all within the building.
Practical Information
Transportation
Although the Downtown area of Yokosuka is very walkable, getting around to other parts of Yokosuka is still convenient thanks to its well-connected public transportation system. Local buses and taxis are readily available and offer a convenient way to explore the city and its surrounding areas. Additionally, renting a bicycle can be a pleasant and eco-friendly option for exploring Yokosuka’s scenic coastline and charming neighborhoods.
I suggest investing in a PASMO or other IC Card to make paying for taxis, busses, and trains hassle free!
Accommodation
Yokosuka offers a range of accommodation options to suit every traveler’s needs and budget. From luxury hotels with stunning waterfront views to cozy guesthouses nestled in the heart of the city, there’s something for everyone. Consider staying in areas like Yokosuka Chuo or near the waterfront for easy access to attractions and dining options.
There are some AirBnB options in Yokosuka, but not as much as places like Yokohama or Tokyo. I would book in advanced, or talk to the hosts beforehand to see if there are dates that work for the both of you.
Currency and Banking
Obviously being in Japan, the currency is the Japanese Yen (¥). Visitors to Yokosuka can easily exchange currency at banks, currency exchange offices, or at the airport upon arrival. ATMs are also widely available throughout the city, accepting major credit and debit cards for cash withdrawals. Seven-Eleven ATMs is what I like to use, personally! Being near the Navy base, there’s a Navy Federal Credit Union ATM just outside Main Gate, if you are able to use that.
Accepted Payment Methods: While credit cards are accepted at many establishments in Yokosuka, it’s always advisable to carry some cash, especially when visiting smaller shops or street vendors. Be sure to inform your bank of your travel plans to avoid any issues with card usage abroad.
Language and Communication
Language Barrier: While Japanese is the primary language spoken in Yokosuka, many locals, particularly those in tourist areas and near the naval base, have some proficiency in English. However, they are not entitled to accommodate you in English. After all, you are in Japan. Learning a few basic Japanese phrases can be helpful for communication, but don’t hesitate to use translation apps or gestures to bridge any language gaps. People in Yokosuka is generally well equipped in English charades.
Translation Services: For travelers in need of translation assistance, there are translation apps available for smartphones that can help facilitate communication. Additionally, many hotels and tourist information centers offer language support and assistance to visitors.
Safety and Emergency Services
Emergency Contact Numbers: In case of emergencies, dialing 110 for police, 119 for fire and ambulance services, or 118 for coast guard assistance will connect you to the appropriate emergency services in Yokosuka.
Healthcare Facilities: Yokosuka boasts modern medical facilities and hospitals, providing quality healthcare services to residents and visitors alike. In case of illness or injury, seek medical attention at one of the city’s hospitals or clinics, where English-speaking staff may be available to assist you.
Local Customs and Etiquette
Respect Local Customs: When visiting shrines, temples, or other cultural sites, it’s important to observe local customs and etiquette. This may include removing your shoes before entering certain establishments, bowing as a sign of respect, and refraining from loud or disruptive behavior.
Tipping Practices: Tipping is not customary in Japan and may even be considered rude in some situations. Instead of tipping, express your appreciation for excellent service with a polite thank-you or by leaving a positive review.
In The End
Whether you’re drawn by Yokosuka’s rich maritime history, its unique blend of American and Japanese cultures, or simply seeking a memorable travel experience, this guide invites you to explore the treasures of my beloved hometown. From historic landmarks to culinary delights, Yokosuka offers something for every traveler. Plan your visit today and discover the charm of this vibrant city by the sea!
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